Phantom Ranch, located at the bottom of the Grand Canyon, is a secluded oasis that offers a unique and unforgettable experience. We made the hike to visit this iconic gem in 2018 and, again, in 2023!
This historic lodge is the only accommodation that lies below the rim of the Grand Canyon. It is a popular destination for hikers and nature enthusiasts.
Below, we’ll uncover the secrets to accessing and staying at Grand Canyon’s Phantom Ranch.
History of Phantom Ranch at The Grand Canyon
Phantom Ranch is located at the bottom of the canyon along the Colorado River. It’s only accessible by hiking, mule ride, or river rafting.
The ranch has a rich history dating back to the early 1900s, and visiting it is still a highly coveted experience.
Phantom Ranch was originally designed in 1922 by a female architect named Mary Jane Colter. In addition to Phantom Ranch, Ms. Colter was the lead architect for several other Grand Canyon structures.
The original stone cabins of Phantom Ranch were constructed using local materials and were designed to blend in with the surrounding environment.
The ranch’s name, “Phantom Ranch,” is believed to have been derived from the fact that the area was once thought to be haunted by ghosts. However, it is more likely that the name was inspired by the nearby Phantom Creek.
Due to the difficulty of the trek from the rim to the river, the National Park Service began offering mule rides to the ranch in the 1920s.
During its early years, Phantom Ranch was primarily used as a tourist destination for wealthy guests. However, in the 1930s, President Roosevelt ordered a Civilian Conservation Corps unit to live at the Ranch and make necessary camp and trail improvements.
Today, guests still enjoy the benefits of these public land improvements.
Phantom Ranch can accommodate up to 92 guests per night, and reservations are required well in advance. Visitors can choose to stay in cabins or dormitories, and steak and stew meals are served nightly in the ranch’s dining hall.
But, first, you have to earn your meal with a strenuous hike, raft, or ride!
Hiking to Phantom Ranch
The only land access to Phantom Ranch is by hiking or mule riding down the Bright Angel, South Kaibab, or North Kaibab trail.
All of these trails are long and strenuous, so it’s important to be in good physical condition before attempting the hike.
The Bright Angel Trail
The Bright Angel Trail descends the canyon from the south rim to the Colorado River. This hike is around 9 miles with about a 4,400 foot elevation change. It is less steep than South Kaibab Trail.
Over the first two-ish miles down from the South Rim, the Bright Angel Trail offers lovely views that are clouded by the wicked switchbacks. People who love this trail do NOT love it for those miles.
The most spectacular part of the Bright Angel Trail is the half that is closest to the river. The trees, flowers, and streams between Havasupai Gardens (formerly known as the Indian Gardens Campground) and the river bring hikers the joy of a desert oasis.
This section is a strong distinguishing factor between the scenery of the two South Rim hikes!
Water on the Bright Angel Trail
Another important note about the Bright Angel Trail is that there are three different stops along the trail with running water: 1.5 miles from the rim, 3 miles from the rim, and at Havasupai Gardens which is around 4.5 miles from the rim.
It is ESSENTIAL that if you choose to hike the Bright Angel Trail you visit the Grand Canyon’s Backcountry Office first. There, you will find information about trail conditions as well as information about which, if any, water taps are currently running.
On our most recent trip, one of the people working at Phantom Ranch told us that there has been at least one water main break each month of her employment. In these cases, certain water sources suddently become dry.
Always be prepared by packing in plenty of water. In our experience, four liters is the magic amount of water to get us through the Bright Angel Trail.
The South Kaibab Trail
The South Kaibab Trail also starts at the South Rim, but it is a shorter, 7.5 miles. It descends about 4,800 feet. Although this trail is steep and full of switchbacks, the sheer beauty makes it feel magical.
Recall that that Grand Canyon is heavily layers with millions of years of rock, all of which have different mineral contents.
Thus, the minerals in each layer combined with the quickly changing elevation at each layer can make it feel as though every hour you have descended into a new world.
At one point, you find yourself in a world of turquoise! Every plant and every bit of Earth within the layer becomes a blue/green combination. As it turns out, the area is high in copper which often takes this hue.
Even the squirrels look turquoise in this portion of the hike!
Upon the advice of our predecessors (aka YouTube people,) we hiked the South Kaibab Trail from rim to river, then hike up the Bright Angel Trail from river to rim. Thus, our second day was (allegedly) slightly longer yet less rigorous.
Water on the South Kaibab Trail
There is no water along the South Kaibab Trail. It is essential that you take plenty of your own. We suggest that you carry at least three liters of water as well as hydration tablets such as “Liquid IV” or “Nuun.”
North Kaibab Trail
This trail begins at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. It decends about 6000 feet over fourteen miles, ending at the Bright Angel Campground near Phantom Ranch.
This is the only trail we have not traversed, so I will refer you to the Park’s description.
Water on the North Kaibab Trail
Similar to the Bright Angel Trail, the North Kaibab Trail does have potable water in several locations. There are periodic breaks in the water lines, so it is essential that you check with the backcountry office before decending this route.
What to Know
For these hikes more than most, it is important that you speak to a park ranger prior to descending into the Canyon.
You need to know if and when there is water on the trail. Sometimes, the drinking water access is not functional. Know your conditions to ensure safety.
If you choose to hike down to Phantom Ranch, there is a duffel service. The mules will carry up to 30 pounds of your belongings for $83 each direction.
If this is your first time on this hike or you are anything less than a serious athlete, we recommend you use this service.
Hiking from the rim to the river and back was one of the most stunning, meaningful, and challenging experiences of my life. It will change the way you see and love the Grand Canyon.
Should you have the capacity and the opportunity to do so, it is my highest recommendation.
Mule Rides to Phantom Ranch
Another memorable and iconic experience is to ride from the rim to the river on the back of a mule. Do not be fooled, however. This is a strenuous experience.
Unless you ride horses daily, you will likely experience “saddle soreness.” Additionally, you will need to consider how comfortable you may feel sitting five feet above the ground on an unfamiliar animal while teetering on the edge of the canyon’s narrow switchbacks.
I think my mother fell into the “never again” review category on this experience!
Those who choose the mule ride will take a 5.5 hour ride down to the river. Meals and accommations at Phantom Ranch are part of this all-inclusive trip.
The price for a single rider is currently $1,165, and it declines slightly with each addition to your group.
The fully-dressed, body weight limit per person is 200 pounds, and, yes, they DO force you onto a scale upon check-in. The minimum age for riders is 9-years-old, and this was the precise age of my son on his first mule trip down the canyon.
If you would like to travel with guests who are well but may wobbly hiking legs, consider sending them down on the mules. Or, this can simply make for a fun and unique experience to the Ranch!
How to Get Reservations for Stays at Phantom Ranch
Phantom Ranch is extremely popular, so it’s important to enter the lottery for this experience well in advance.
Prospective guests will enter the lottery between the 1st and 25th of the 15th month prior to the month of stay.
Lottery “winners” will be notified in the 14th month prior to arrival. Excess inventory, if any, will be released on the concessionaire website 13 months in advance.
For access to the Phantom Ranch Lottery and Important Dates click HERE.
Our SECRET access to Phantom Ranch…
Much to our delight, we stumbled upon a slightly more accessible way to stay at Phantom Ranch.
Recall that mule-riders are guaranteed cabin space at the Ranch. Most cabins sleep more than two guests.
Thus, if you have both hikers and mule-riders in your group, whichever (though likely the mule-riders because it is less competitive,) is granted space at the Ranch first can share their cabin with the rest of the party.
For example, my husband and I could not get a reservation at Phantom Ranch; however, when we signed up my mother and my son as mule riders, we were granted accommodations to fill the extra beds in their cabin.
It is important to note that you can only have as many or fewer hikers filling excess cabin space as you have mule-riders. You cannot put one person on the mule and unlock hiker access for another five people.
Be sure to let us know if this strategy is helpful to you!
Budget or Backcountry: another way to visit Phantom Ranch
While this alternative option does not grant you a stay at the Phantom Ranch cabins, backpacking to the Ranch can offer you the opportunity to see the historic buildings and shop and eat at the historic canteen.
And, trust me, by the time you hike all the way to the Ranch, you will swear that the canteen’s lemonade is made of pure gold!
The Bright Angel Campground is a backcountry oasis. With the amenities of Phantom Ranch and the songs of the water, you will enjoy camping on these shores of the Colorado River.
In order to secure your requisite backcountry permit for this experience, you will have to plan and apply far in advance (as seems to be the theme of the 2020s.)
The cost for this permit is $10 plus an additional $12 per person, and it is charged via a credit card authorization.
The park service accepts requests starting 5 months on the 20th of the month before your preferred arrival date. Permits take up to 3 weeks for processing.
As of April, 2023, this is NOT an online permit request. You must fax or mail THIS PDF for processing.
Should you be one of the lucky few awarded the opportunity to enjoy camping at the Bright Angel Campground, it is sure to become one of your favorite campgrounds in America!
What to Expect and What to Do at Phantom Ranch
Phantom Ranch is a collection of historic cabins including private and dormitory-style accommodations as well as the gift shop/restauraunt, aka “the canteen.” There is also a corral for the mules, of course!
Enjoy your time by soaking your feet or wading into the river. Take a walk. Visit the mules, Chat with the hikers at the family-style tables in the canteen. Read a book.
Enjoy a surprisingly good Phantom Ranch meal. And breathe. You are in a very special place.
One iconic practice that you must do while at the Ranch is sending yourself or someone you love a postcard from the Phantom Ranch mailbox.
It will be famously stamped “Mailed by Mule,” and pack mules will carry it back to the rim for delivery!
Phantom Ranch is a secluded oasis that offers a unique and unforgettable experience. By following these tips and planning ahead, you’ll be able to access and stay at this historic lodge and make the most of your time at the Grand Canyon.
So what are you waiting for? Start planning your trip to Phantom Ranch today!
